These pegboard Christmas tree ideas are great for anyone with limited space or just looking for an alternative to the typical store bought, fake green tree. These ideas are quick and simple to construct and because the pegboard sits flat on the floor or hung on the wall, it is a space saving alternative to having a large Christmas tree. And this means more room for presents! Yay! First up is my red ribbon tree –These are so simple to put together. Using some pegboard hooks, mark out where you want the outline of your tree to go, and then run the ribbon around the hooks and let it fall in a lovely puddle at the bottom of the pegboard. To make your corners, place two hooks in opposite directions and thread the ribbon in a zig zag motion around them. And there is no reason you can’t choose your own embellishment for the top of the tree. There are no hard and fast rules, so if you don’t want to use the traditional angel or star, find something else that appeals to you. I have used a red bird on my tree top.For my next tree i used a simple string of silver beads and a plain white star as the topper. You could also use tinsel, jute string or a garland of felt balls as an alternative. Nat at Little Puddles sells garlands in a variety of Christmas colours and they would be PERFECT for this project. My Christmas budget is at its limit, so i may have to wait until next year to give the garlands a go. My last pegboard tree is made from a string of coloured lights. My string of lights was quite long, so i managed to wrap it around the tree outline three times. Make sure you buy lights that are on silver or clear wire, so that they blend in with the pegboard. I’ve decided to stick with a combination of the lights and silver balls. This way the tree looks pretty during the day as well as the evening when the lights are shining brightly. Photobomber Perry! Totally confused and unsettled by the constantly changing tree. What do you think? Would you consider a pegboard tree?
I really wish i could take the credit for this super easy and fun Christmas tree made from sticks and pom poms. Unfortunately, i can’t and i must give credit where credit is due. I found the idea on interest here –
For more Christmas craft and styling ideas you can visit my Christmas Pinterest Board.
If you are looking for a cheap and easy Christmas craft project, these air dry, white clay tags are quick and fun to make. Like all of my favourite craft projects, these tags are simple, affordable and look great. All you need for this Christmas project is – DAS air dry clay (i bought mine from office works), christmas cookie cutters, a straw, a rolling pin and your choice of thread or ribbon to decorate them. I used some old X-ray films as a mat for rolling out the clay and drying the tags. They work well as the clay doesn’t stick to the surface and they clean up really easily. So, if you have some old X-ray film around, i can highly recommend using it as a mat for this project. Open your packet of clay and break off about a third. I like to work with a third at a time because it’s easier to handle and the clay is less likely to dry out if you can work with it quickly. It will look a little grey initially, but don’t worry, once it is dry it will turn white. Roll out your clay until it is nice and smooth on both sides. You don’t want to see any lines or bumps in the clay, or your tags may crack and break as they dry. I like my tags to be about 1/2 a cm thick. Once you are happy that your surface is smooth, press the cookie cutter into the clay until it cuts all the way through. Push the straw into the clay, twist and pull out the centre, leaving a clean hole for you to thread your string or ribbon through later. Leave them to dry for up to four days. As they dry you can see them turning a lighter and brighter shade of white. You will know when they are dry when there are no more grey patches left on either the front or the back of the tag. Here are some of my finished tags, threaded with jute string. Ribbon or bakers twine looks quite effective too. And don’t they look great hanging off our stick Christmas tree. My family and i made this tree from sticks that have fallen on our property. It was a great family bonding activity and I LOVE how it turned out. The clay tags compliment the rough sticks perfectly. These tags can be used to decorate Christmas gifts too. The recipients name can be written on the clay once it is dry, or even stamped into the wet clay to leave an impression. I will be making a batch of these every year to attach to gifts. I may even get a bit more adventurous next year with paint and stamping, but for this Christmas i’m loving the chalky, matt finish of the plain clay tags. It really is starting to look a lot like Christmas around my home.
I thought it was time I created an improved tutorial for my paper cone wreaths. You can find my original tutorial made from vintage sheet music here. These paper wreaths get a lot of attention on my instagram account and they’re not that hard to make. I was delighted last week when I found an old atlas from 1965 for $2 in an op shop. The colours that adorned the pages were so beautiful that I knew it would be my prettiest wreath yet. Of course, you can use whatever paper you prefer – sheet music, golden books, a dictionary or even Christmas paper would all work well. Here’s what you’ll need –
- double sided tape
- hot glue gun and sticks
- lacquer suitable for paper
Step 1 – cut up your paper. I divided the atlas pages into quarters, measuring 11 x 14cm, so this will be quite a small wreath, but you can use whatever size you prefer. The bigger the page, the bigger the wreath. Step 2 – stick a piece of double sided tape across the bottom of the paper. You can see in the picture that it doesn’t need to go all the way across, but it’s important that it covers the far right corner of the paper.Step 3 – take your paper and bring the top lefthand corner across the front. Then wrap the top righthand corner around and stick in place to form a cone. Step 4 – fold under about a 1/4 of the bottom of the cone and then staple it into place.Step 5 – cut off the excess paper. This reduces bulk when you glue your cones together.Step 6 – make around 60-70 cones. The number of cones needed depends on the size of your wreath.
Step 7 – cut a circle out of cardboard. My circle measures 14cm across.Step 8 – using a hot glue gun, start sticking your cones to the circle of cardboard. I like to place cones marking four quarters and then fill in the gaps with equal numbers of cones. This helps to create a uniform and symmetrical wreath. In the picture below you can see the first round completed.Step 9 – continue to attach your paper cones round by round. The number of rounds depends on the size of your wreath.
Step 10 – once you reach the centre of the wreath, you may find it tricky to fit the paper cones in place. Don’t be afraid to cut more length off your cones to help them to fit into place. Ta da! All finished.
Step 11 – I like to spray my completed wreaths with a couple of coats of lacquer to make the paper more durable.
I was really excited to finally hang my DIY tufted headboard on the wall in the navy room at RedAgape Guesthouse. You can find the tutorial here if you are keen to make one for yourself. It is a challenging project but well worth the time and energy, as it is so cost effective when compared with buying a new headboard.
You can find more images of RedAgape Guesthouse in my Instagram feed or my FaceBook page. 🙂
I have just completed my DIY diamond tufted headboard and it looks great! Following is a tutorial and recount of my emotional journey 😉 that lead to the creation of a tufted headboard that is a fraction of the price of a bought one. I won’t lie, this has been my most challenging DIY yet. Don’t be fooled by the feminine curves of the tufting or the inviting soft plumps of foam, this project was a bitch! That said, it was so worth it!! I’m so relieved that it turned out well and my button to button method (explained below) worked beautifully for a beginner at upholstery. I challenge you to give this a go! It’s so rewarding. Anyway, here we go –
You will need –
Pegboard cut to size. The measurements will depend on what style and size you need.
3inch foam the same size as the pegboard
Batting – the same size as the pegboard with an additional 6inches all the way around
Fabric – same amount as the batting
Extra fabric for buttons
Upholstery thread – NOT regular cotton (trust me it won’t work)
Button making supplies – I needed 51
Buttons for backing – 51
Upholstery needleStep 1 – mark out where you want the tufts to be on the pegboard by circling around the holes. My tufts were about 6inches apart but you may prefer to have them closer or further apart depending on the look you want to achieve. Start marking the holes in the centre of the board so that the tufts are symmetrical. I drew up the pattern of diamonds when I was finished so that I could see they were all positioned correctly.
Step 2 – lie the pegboard on the foam and using a sharpie draw through the holes to mark the pattern onto the foam. You should be able to see the marks clearly on the foam. Step 3 – using an old knife cut out a square section of foam where marked. Don’t be scared to cut out a decent amount of foam as this will make the tufting process easier and make sure the hole goes all the way through. This is the secret to nice deep tufts. Step 4 – layer up your headboard : pegboard, foam, batting and then fabric. Make sure the marked side of the pegboard is facing out at the back (so you can see where the tufts will be) and that the batting and fabric are nice and smooth with no bubbles. Step 5 – using the extra fabric make enough buttons to complete your tufts. This process takes and while, so be patient. Warning – your thumbs will be sore….very sore.Step 6 – let the tufting begin!! I’ve seen some tutorials where a staple gun is used to secure the upholstery thread in place. I tried it and I didn’t like it….at all. I found it difficult and really messy looking, so I tried a new method using some old buttons. I’m calling it the ‘button to button’ method. The pretty fabric covered button is on display at the front and any old four hole button secures the tuft at the back. Thread your upholstery needle, double it over and tie the ends in a knot. Thread the needle through the four hole button and then through the middle of the two threads. I went around a few times for added strength. Step 7 – start at the top in the centre and work your way out to the edges. Insert the needle through the marked hole at the back and out the front through the foam, batting and fabric. Pull your thread tight so the button at the back is over the hole. At the front, ease the fabric into a point and then attached your fabric button. Step 8 – Take the needle back though the foam and pegboard. Don’t go through the exact same position or your fabric might tear. I tried to leave about 1/2 cm between the exit and entry point. Sounds easy right! Wrong. 😦 sometimes the needle went straight through and out the exact hole and other times it took an eternity to find the right route back through the foam. Patience is the key. I was pretty patient, surprisingly patient (especially given I was premenstrual) up until the last couple of rows. Then the cursing started….and it didn’t stop until the last button. Thank goodness the kids were at school. 🙂Step 9 – Alright, once your needle is back out through the same hole it entered it’s time to secure your tuft. Apply pressure to your fabric button while pulling tight on the upholstery thread. Insert the needle under the thread in the button and knot tightly. I repeated this about three times for each button to make sure it was properly secure. Stand back and admire. Step 10 – Now repeat steps 6,7,8 and 9 about 51 times (it felt like about 1000 times). It’s agony….really. I must have stabbed myself a hundred times with the needle, the thread almost cut a slice out of my hand and all of my muscles ached from wresting with the foam and buttons. I totally underestimated how physical this task would be. When that last button was secured I’m pretty sure I heard a choir of angels singing and I may have cried a little. Post tufting euphoria! Cursing over. 🙂 Happy days! Step 11 – staple the fabric firmly over the pegboard making sure your corners are nice and tidy. Try to keep the tension the same all the way around. Trim off the excess fabric and batting. I’m planning on covering the entire back surface with a piece of felt or fleece to stop the buttons rubbing on the wall once it’s hung. Here are a couple of shots in my room at home. The headboard will go to the guesthouse next week and I’ll be sure to post some pics of it at it’s new home. I’m convinced now that I want to make one for my bedroom at home, but I’m going to wait about 6 months, maybe have some counselling and physiotherapy before I started the next one. 🙂
Some of my paper wreaths are now available for sale at Tomolly in Millthorpe. Please pop in and see the lovely Belinda at Tomolly if you’d like to check them out in person. Currently, i have two golden book wreaths and one vintage sheet music wreath available. You can also follow Belinda on Instagram or FB if you’d like to see what she has in stock.
These little DIY felt wall pennants are a great way to use up some of your excess craft supplies. I’ve been trying to be good and not purchase anymore craft supplies, which can sometimes be as much as a hobby as the crafting itself. Craft addicts – I know you understand! I didn’t need to purchase a single thing for this project. Yay! 🙂
You’ll need – flat felt, rotary cutter, scissors, thread, needle, paint and dowel.
1 – First, cut out a rectangle from the felt. The size is up to you and depends on how big you want your pennant to be. My rectangle is 7×9 inches. Fold your rectangle in half and cut a triangle at a diagonal (see fig 1) about a third of the way up the felt.
2 – Unfold your felt and you can see the result. Felt is a great fabric for this project because the edges won’t fray, so you don’t need to worry about hemming them.
3 – Fold the top section of your rectangle down about an inch and pin. Then stitch in place (by machine or hand). This is where you’ll insert the dowel.
5 – Stencils and paint are a quick and easy way to decorate a pennant. You can used a sponge or brush to apply the paint.
6 – I used a brush and stencil for the star pennant. I found using a brush produced sharper edges than the sponge.
7 – You can always paint free hand onto the felt if you’re feeling brave. I’m no artist so I prefer stencils, but I did manage to paint the word LOVE onto one pennant without too much drama.
8 – I decorated the last two pennants with white stitching. I used white embroidery thread and a simple back stitch to hand sew crossing arrows on this pennant.
9 – I used the same embroidery thread to stitch the word ‘love’ on the last pennant.
10 – Next, cut some 5mm square dowel to size and then pierce a hole through either end to attach the thread. The dowel I used is from Spotlight and it is really soft, which made it perfect for this method. If the the dowel or stick is too firm to pierce, you could just wrap the string around and tie it in place.
11 – If you are using the threaded method, thread the string through the hole and then tie a knot to keep your thread from pulling through.
12 – Because the pennants are so light weight you can attached them to the wall with washi tape. No more holes in the wall. 🙂
I found a really easy tutorial for crochet stars on a blog called Jelly Wares. It’s a gorgeous blog and after losing half an hour looking at all the pretty images, i decided to give the crochet stars a whirl! The tutorial is brilliant! Nice clear images and instructions, which are perfect for a beginner like me. I was surprised to find myself with a completed yellow star after 30mins (I’m slow, still learning).
I was so chuffed with my first star! It wasn’t too dodgy looking at all! Yay! And now it’s official that i am hooked….addicted. #crochetaddict #starcrochet #ilovecrochet #yarnlover #hookedoncrochet #icantstop